The works of Jules Lavalle from 1855
Jules Lavalle wrote a very important book in 1855 on the terroir, wine and people of Burgundy. A few years later, Lavalle went on to head a group in Beaune that would piece together the first comprehensive classification of the vineyards in the region. His book was largely based on the work of Denis Morelot from 1831. Morelot is credited with putting a pen to the notion of terroir in Burgundy.
In 1936, the INAO used the classification which Lavalle helped create to establish the first official classification which would from then on place government boundaries and guidelines upon the Côte d’Or(AOC).
This is of course a simplified summary of Jules Lavalle and the classification of the Côte d’Or. More can be found through online searches.
I found an original copy of the 1855 book filled with an amazing amount of information such as thoughts on quality comparisons of different appellations, princing and vintage comparisons, lithograph maps, etc. The book is quite difficult so it’s taking a bit of time to read through. The 7 foot long lithograph map(shown in the frame) is a bit of an oddity as I had never heard of it before finding it. It dates back to 1855 as well. I can only imagine that it wad released with the book originally.
I really enjoy reading these old perspectives on Burgundy. Not all of the classification in this book was held up through the official classification. Part of the enjoyment is seeing both how things were changed and how accurate these opinions are even some 150 plus years later.
When reading things like this, I can’t help but feel more drawn to Burgundy. Stepping in these vineyards that have been worked for the same goal for thousands of years is just awe inspiring.
Peeking over the fence
When I was in California, I noticed that is was common for Pinot noir makers that I know to give eachother a call, compare experiences with vintage and to possibly ask questions to one another. I enjoyed this idea that everyone was in the same boat and willig to have open lines of communication with their peers.
Before comin to Burgundy, I figured I had a good idea of what to expect. Everyone had been so nice that I was surprised in just how helpful everyone had been and continued to be. I was of course told by friends in the States and in France to expect this to turn once I was actually in the thick of Harvest.
While here, I have tried to be as organized and professional as possible. As it turns out, I benefitted from a few established (new) friends lending me a hand, picking bins, whatever it may be…and they seemed glad to do so. The goal out here seems to be the same as California at it’s root. The goal is to have everyone make the best wine possible from what the vineyard and vintage gives to you.
This last week, I was able to speak about and compare my vendage experience with others that are part of families that have been in the region for centuries. The amount of knowledge and general awareness is simply astonishing. This is truly a wine culture. I remember seeing children this year, beginning at age 7 going for lessons at the CFPPA (the wine academy) in Beaune. It’s amazing since I was nowhere near wine culture at that age aside from an occasional trip to the Russian River.
From speaking with others about this vintage, the majority of us are seeing classic numbers on alcohol, with bright fruit, yet with higher than expected ph numbers.
Round tannin feel along with some higher than average yields seem to be a mark of the vintage. Of course some places were hit with hail and yields cannot be so easy to plot for the entire region. Most said while pressing that the berries were quite generous with a lovely additional amount of free run.
Eventhough I enjoyed doing things my way this year, it is always enjoyable to peek over the fence once in a while.
Cheers
Wines are back from the lab
Fresh from the lab and the numbers are looking excellent. The numbers are as follows:
Morey Saint Denis ‘Les Chaffots’ 1er Cru 13.29% alc
Charmes-Chambertin ‘Aux Charmes’ 13.59% alc
Le Chambertin 13.16% alc
The alcohol levels are right where I wanted them, on paper and through tasting. The ph levels are a bit higher than what we would like to see in Burgundy (mine are between 3.49-3.71). I could have made adjustments in the winery. By adding a bit of acid but my preference is to see what comes from the vineyard without adjustments. I also stayed away from chapitalization (adding sugar for boosting alc). These practices are used with success here but each person has their preferences. Mine is to do only what is necessary in the winery and the vintage was very easy on this philosophy.
Also of note, malic numbers are a bit low this year generally speaking. And with the chill now coming in, we are potentially looking at a long time to start and to finish malo.
Cheers
Livres anciennes
While in Burgundy I have been constantly searching for ways to improve my French and understanding of the region. This search has led me to buying old books wherever I can find them including at Bricorant or garage sales.
I found two books recently that are quite interesting. The first is a book of all great wines (from France) written by Anthony Réal in 1887. This is an origianl copy simply titled ‘Les Grands Vins – Curiosités Historiques’.
He speaks about the many merits of the traditions and terroir of France, but also of the dedication of the vigneron, the winegrower/maker. He compares regions and speaks about some regions that get little press in our times. Some of the old drinking songs and songs which were sang in the vineyards get a bit of mention as well. Altogether, a great read for something light and fun.
The second book by Henri Drouot is also an original copy written in 1925 and is titled La Côte-D’Or under the series Collection Des Départments et Pays de France.
Now this is an amazing book. Not two weeks before finding this book in Nuits Saint Georges, I saw a reprint from the 60′s that was displayed in a book shop’s window that sold just before I decided to enquire about it. The book sold for a lofty sum. I bought my original for 10€.
This book is quite a piece as it not only goes into detail about winemaking traditions, modern (for the early 20th century) techniques, but also offers a mice collection of photos of the region, maps, geological details, statistics showing population trends in Dijon and Beaune, other exports made in the region, and a wealth of other historical hems such as other proposed names of the department.
This has got to be my favorite book by just a hair over the Clive Coates book I used to lug around when I first learned about wine. I still love my Coates book. This book just comes to life with the food, roads, sights, history and tradition that are so special and all too difficult to communicate to someone that has yet to visit the Côte d’Or.
I have yet to read all of the book of course. There is a lot of information to digest and it is in French afterall, I have a long way to go to becoming fluent. But books like these that capture interest are one of the best ways to connect the sounds you hear during the day to words and phrases on paper.
Another part of interest, the book notes a post fermentation maceration of three weeks with aging in barrel for four years on wines of quality and 18 months on ordinary wines withdour rackings in total. This is truly a great book.
Well, back to reading…
Nice day for a drive
Today was a beautiful day for a drive. After collecting some barrel staves from François Freres to use for my mini barrels I decided it was a nice day for a drive, to decompress.
My day started out with my old 80′s 3 series needing to be cranked for 20 seconds in order to start. Parking at the boulangerie in a steep parking spot I encountered the same difficulty starting. Going to the station service and getting gas I fought with the old car to get the latch on the fuel door (didn’t know it had one) to release and afterwards sat for an hour needing to let my flooding of the engine fix itself. Once it started I needed to give the obligatory tap on the dashboard thanking her for getting us back on track.
On my way to the cooperage, I was thinking about all of the time I ‘lost’. Heading over the hills toward Saint Romain, I peered over the Hautes Cotes down into Rochepot and couldn’t help but stop the car, get out, and admire the view. ‘Losing time’. How could I think like this when I have such beautiful things to look at and get lost in? Nope, today was bound to be a driving day. The car was now running quite well, the sun was coming out and the chill was losing it’s grip on the morning as the minutes slowly trotted by.
I had a few plans for the day. I was to drive to the Cote de Nuits to look for a possible home/cuverie/cave in the usual Ville Viticole. Driving through Chambolle-Musigny I saw a few places of interest before spotting this picturesque road into the chalk laced mountains above. I couldn’t resist. I had no idea where I was going and this made it all the more more entertaining.
Yellow, red and brick colored leaves were falling to the road while some leaves were waiting to be driven across. As I drove by, looking in the rear view, I watched the leaves blown up and falling as I moved along at a brisk clip. Times like this I don’t quite hate Mondays.
Arriving at the summit, I saw that the road led to Chamboef. There was a huge amount of space up there. Nothing but fallow land (beautiful soil with healthy amounts of chalky limestone was laying about) with a nice grass field of some type. It was remarkable but I was anxious to hit the switchbacks that I had just driven up once again. On the way down, I rolled the windows down, drove a bit slower, the lush forest smalled so fresh as I was driving through and suddenly none of the morning’s mayhem was of importance to me. With Miles Davis as the soundtrack to it all, it hit me.
I love this road, this cheap, finicky car is perfect. And at times, I absolutely love Mondays.
Cheers
Done and done
Finally, I am back with some more updates! I have been using my iPhone while in France and my WordPress app has been keeping me from updating everyone. With a quick delete and reinstall I am back up and running.
The wines are now resting comfortably in barrel. I enlisted the help from the guys from South Africa from Domaine Clivet in Beaune. I couldn’t contain my enthusiasm for starting the pressing process. This was an excellent year apprently for juice. Most that I spoke with reported a great amount of free run with exceptional color.
I ended up with a shortage on both my Morey Saint Denis and my Charmes-Chambertin. However I was able to fill 2 full sized 228 liter barrels and a 114 liter barrel (feullette) with Le Chambertin which is quite a bit more than the 2 I was expecting.
I am very happy with the results. Is this the vintage of the decade that many are making it out to be? I think 2012 is shaping up to be a bit better. Meaning, it’s best not to get too caught up in the best, greatest and so forth. Being in France has taught me that I should be more focused on the benefit of one without depreciating the other. There is no best, just different. This vintage is showing to be one with many strenghts, however the enjoyment will only be known to the person with the glass in hand.
Here are a few pics from the weeks that the blog was down. My apologies for the down time.
Thanks again for the emails and replies. It means a lot knowing that others are along with me for the ride.
Cheers
