les progrès d'un rêve

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A bit of paint for the press

24 hours after bringing the press home and its all painted. I made sure to use odorless paint, wouldn’t want any wine taste or odor in the wine. Starting Monday, I’ll begin sanding down the wooden basket to see what it looks like underneath the surface. I’m choosing to keep the wood natural, without any sealants. Should be a lot of work, especially to keep clean, but its for the best…can’t wait!

The story of how I came to find the press is a bit interesting as well. I have been looking for a press in this exact model for a couple of years. I’ve come across countless examples. The state of the presses however were typically weathered and worn, rusted or simply just bits and pieces of what once was. Of course this didn’t stop the owners from attempting to get top dollar. These can fetch a high price, even in a terrible condition for several thousand euros since people use them as decorations in their courtyards, etc. Its a tough sell to convince your wife that you are going to buy something looking dismantled for that much money. So, I thought my dream of renovating a press was over.

A friend had given me a heads up on a website which has classifieds, leboncoin.fr . I went looking around, and hoped I would find something interesting. Then I saw it. Green, wooden, on steel wheels and seemingly in excellent condition… €450! I showed my wife and we agreed something must be wrong with it. But, my wife encouraged me to give it a shot. I secretly planned to anyhow. After given the green light, I couldn’t type my email to the owner fast enough!

We had to go nearly an hour North of Dijon to this remote location atop a mountain. The view was beautiful. I imagined the press to be in some ran down winery, or farm. What we came to visit was an actual French historic location. The area was once a meeting place for the knights of the Templar. There was a church which had old engravings attesting to this alongside a small body of water once used to baptize those from the church. This was also an important place during World War 1 when there was a great resistance here. There is much more history to speak of, but lets get back to the press.

One year before I purchased the press, the owner saw an ad for a press in a similar condition as his for €3500. It sold. He decided to sell his at €1500 since he said he inherited it with the house and really didn’t know much about selling presses and he had never made wine before. He posted the ad and waited. A full year went by without any response. He figured the price must be too high and he figured it best to just get rid of it at any price. He listed is at €450, the night that I first saw it. And once we saw the press, I wanted it. I attempted to wait for my wife’s response. It is an old piece of machinery after all. After a few minutes of staring at it, my wife again gave me the green light. A check was cut to reserve the press until we could pick it up, though the owner said it was not necessary. A few weeks later when picking the press up, the owner thanked me and remarked on the great deal I made saying that once it was sold he received a few offers for more money.He was glad that I bought it since he knew it would be used. He figured the others would use it as an antique piece in a courtyard. Its going to be very hard work using this press. What I hear from those that have used them is that they provide an unmatched level or gentle pressing. We’ll be finding out soon enough…

Cheers!

Enjoy the pics!

Delivery of the press

Two days ago, I decided it was much easier to pick up my press instead of having it delivered. Another issue was that delivery was set cost more than the press itself. That wouldn’t have seemed right.

The past owner turned out to be quite helpful. With just the two of us, we backed my rented truck and trailor into his garage where the press was located. We then ratcheted the press up the ramp of the trailor and centered it. After all of this, we made sure to cinch it down so much that I was thinking it would take forever to undo once I got home. No worries, I thought, this is several hours away…I’ll deal with it then.

Turns out that I found out the answer to that concern not 15 minutes later as on my way out of his garage, press in tow, we noticed that the height of the press atop the trailor threatened to take out a chunk of the façade of his garage if I advanced forward.

So, we dismounted it. To be specific, his idea was to back the two back wheels down onto the ramp if the trailor to lower the height and perhaps change the angle of the press screw since we needed to drive up his driveway to get out.

I told him that his floor would get damaged, but he said go for it. Several burned rubber marks, scratches in concrete and stone tile later, the press was out safely. On the way home, I was getting more and more anxious to have everything set up and in place.

Once I got home, I was greeted by a young neighbor who was having a party with about 20 people in his apartment. One yelled down from the window to me that he could help. When he came down, some of the girls threw buckets of cold water down below, drenching the poor guy. Well, we did all laugh about it. With the noise of laughter on our little street, other neighbors peeked out through their drapes. It was 10pm afterall. Luckily, more guys came down to help, about 12 in total, it was quite a sight and really an amazing thing to have all of these people I don’t know doing their best to lend me a hand. My wife and daughter came out too, startled by the amount of people helping and watching. Suffice to say, a few more people know now that there is either a new crazy person or wine maker on the block.

Cheers!

Note: Photos in garage were taken at previous owner’s garage.

I had a very long drive to pick the press up. I’d never heard of the village, but it was one of the prettiest places I’ve seen here in France. The views from the rocky cliffs were amazing. On a side note, the area around the previous owner’s house has it’s own church dating back to the 4th or 5th century. Its amazing to think exactly where simple drives will take you while here.

Our ‘new’ pressoir

Today is a great day for the winery. After searching high and low for an excellent example of this particular model of pressoir on wheels, I was able to find this press which I will pick up next week! Photos simply do no justice in showing how beautiful this is in person. The press is a wooden vertical basket press, made around 80 years ago in Beaune by Cherreau. They made a great deal of equipment which I find truly interesting.

Those who have recently been to the Centre Ville Beaune exit from the autoroute will also notice that this is the same model. The only difference is that mine is not painted red…yet. Mine was last used two years ago and functions perfectly. Of note, there is a huge I-beam underneath the press for added strength while pressing. This is very similar to the press I used in 2009 with a few notable differences. The press I used last year had a ratcheting type of mechanism which brought the press head down, it also had 3 wheels so moving it around was tough. Last thing, the version I used last year was around 70 years newer than the model I just purchased.

Everything works just as it should. This is a simple machine. Grapes are loaded into the cage, with wooden blocks place on top to form a flat surface. The large handle is turned by walking it around the pressoir. As the handle is turned, the press head lowers onto the wood atop the grapes. Walking the handle around the pressoir further creates enough pressure on the grapes to compress the grapes, releasing the juice. With the amount of turns required, it is quite easy to dial in an exacting amount of pressure.

The wooden cage is in excellent condition (the split in the front of the cage closes once all of the latches are closed). However, I think it best to have a new cage built to my specific needs, possibly just a bit smaller. I’m really excited about this essential piece of winery equipment. Working with an older, fully functioning press is something I have always wanted to do. Please enjoy the photos. During harvest I’ll be sure to include video with it in action.


Just to give you an idea of what it will look like after some paint and a new cage, Robert Driscoll took a shot of the press in Beaune.

More cuverie progress

Early X-mas: Two of my four tanks coming into my courtyard

Today was a bit like an early X-mas for me. With the rain coming down hard on Monday morning, I was told I may not get my tanks that day. I wasn’t quite sure how the tanks could be damaged while being wrapped in plastic, but I figured why rush? Thankfully, the bizarre weather continued, this time going from intense rains to California summer-like temps allowing for the tanks to be delivered.

These wood beams were used to roll off the wooden tanks

With no fork lift at the winery, I was assured we would still be ok for the dismounting of the tanks. Using two 20 foot long wooden runners, we rolled the tanks off the truck, over some flat wooden runners which made their way into the cuverie and it all went fairly well. After having a tank in the cuverie, we placed four motorscooter tires on the floor, and raised the tank onto them. After jacking them up with a 50 year old truck jack we were able to place the temporary wooden stands. Each tank has four wood pieces that make the stand. They arrive with two and the other two are placed on while removing the temporary wood stands once the tanks are in place.

Tanks are in place, waiting for hardware

Since we needed to roll these tanks off the truck, the tanks came with all of the hardware unattached. Thankfully the tank producer was more than happy to install everything on location. Temp gauge, tasting valve, the standard two valves (one for evacuation of wine and one for evacuation of water). No doors were ordered as these are really short enough to simply shovel out the marc on press day measuring just around 5’10″ or so. The tank in the corner is the largest tank I will have. So, punchdowns should be really easy without bumping my head. This is priceless.

Hardware attached after just 45 minutes

Tanks are in place and hardware is attached. After some quick measurements, the small tank is placed quite close to a door which gives me a lot of room. I initially hesitated since I didn’t think it would fit. However, things feel just right in there. The other tanks will line up against the walls quite well, giving me room to clean in between them as well as allowing for space for whatever may be needed. I also have room in the cuverie for various tools in a separate away away from the tanks. Punchdown equipment, temp gauges…maybe a few other things which I don’t really but they are nice to have.

Of note, I am not sure what to do with this last steel tank of mine. I have a tank for topping up already. However, the steel tank has a lot of extra equipment added on. Its a nice tank. Anyhow, I think about it. As of now, there is plenty of room to allow it to hang out for awhile. There is much more room (maybe forget that ‘much’ part) than there appears to be from the pics. I’ll try to shoot some more today.

Cheers!

The Cuverie is coming together

Things have been really busy around here the last week. I’ve been painting up a storm…and things are looking almost as they should. I still have a bunch of touchup work to do. I was set to get some of my new wooden tanks (for primary fermentation) this last week but one of the foudrier’s crew got sick pushing the delivery date to Monday. This gave me a few more days to paint in the cuverie and to finish the doors. This is great so I don’t have to worry about having paint around the new tanks. There are odorless paints but I wanted to be sure and just do it the right way. So, when Monday gets here, I’ll have a nice clean space for the new tanks (two of the four at least). Don’t worry, the interior of the cuverie is a plain white. ;)

Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Chaffots’: A few recent photos

Looking down the hill of Les Chaffots towards Clos Saint Denis

Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Chaffots’ is the only premier cru vineyard that I currently source from. It’s location is quite interesting as it is just above Clos Saint Denis and just above and to the left of Clos de la Roche, both Grand Crus. Part of the current Clos Saint Denis was actually at one time Les Chaffots. At just over 25-30 years for the vine age, these vines are also the youngest that I currently source from. The terrain here is the most littered with limestone of the three as well. The quality of fruit here speaks for itself when tasting the wines. I’m very excited to continue working with this fruit. Just two weeks ago, we visited the vineyard and I took a few shots.

Enjoy!

Painting, gardening and just a bit of winemaking

Well, the winemaking side of things are taking care of themselves. The malos are moving well. Le Chambertin, which was the last to be picked and the last to start and finish primary has been doing very well on the malo and is almost finished. The malo on the two other cuvées have been bubbling away but haven’t budged numerically speaking. No worries either way, as long as they are healthy and tasting as they should.

*Note that the Morey Saint Denis is Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru ‘Les Chaffots’ (a much longer name)

Besides checking the wine through analysis, I’ve been busy with a bunch of things. Setting up the cable, phone service, tearing into the massive garden in our courtyard (which will double as the are for processing fruit during harvest), and painting have been major tasks. They’ve all been fun though. Really, I’m serious. Going from an empty house in Burgundy to changing over a garage to a cuverie, filling up a very old cave with your wine, getting your refrigerator together along with beds is major. Everything I tinker on just makes me so happy and my wife and daughter seem to be enjoying my handywork…though my painting can use a lot of practice. ;)

Today, it’s raining, so there will be a small break in the paint workshop. I still have a lot of painting to do. Hopefully the rain will let up tomorrow so I can get back to work. There is a fair amount of 1950′s green on the walls which I am in a hurry to whiten up.

The garden is coming along as well. There were weeds much taller than me, at around 7 feet tall. All of these were ripped out by hand as I didn’t have the proper tools to fit the timing of my increasing impatience. I also cleared out a nice strawberry patch as it had decided to run wild throughout the garden. Sad to see them go, but I’ll plant more soon. Next, I bought some trees. Clementine Mandarins, Lemon, Pear, Cherries and a few herbs. Today a friend and I were set to roto-till the garden and plant some grass (between painting, of course) but the rain pushed the plans until another day.

Thankfully through all of this my wife has been watching Isabella, our daughter while I ran around getting things done. Isabella even helped pick some weeds with me, dandelion by dandelion. She’s much more precise than I am. Hopefully she is free during harvest.

Cheers

Moving forward: 100% wooden tanks!

I’m excited to share that this year I will be using all wooden tanks for my fermentations. No more stainless steel. Last year, I used a Rousseau tank for the Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. This year, I will use all wooden tanks as they mesh with a number of my thoughts/philosophies about winemaking. One of which is covered by having all fermentations done in the same type of fermentation vessel. Having a mix leaves room for someone to prefer a wine simply because of a unique choice which I made on a particular cuvée rather than enjoying the differences of terroir.

The change means a few things. I have to be sure to maintain the cleanliness of the tanks on a level that is much more demanding that which is called for while using a stainless steel tank. Also, my garage (read: cuverie) will be able to house several tanks which are wider, lower and much more space efficient than the tall cylindrical steel tanks. This is a big move and I cannot wait to take delivery of two of my four tanks next week. I won’t be using my Rousseau tank as the height makes it impossible to do punchdowns in the cuverie, also, its best to have all the tanks made by the same tonnellerie to ensure uniformity through a lack of variables. This is with the sole intention of highlighting terroir as the main (and hopefully only) variable between lots.

Lastly, I have been offered fruit from a 1er Cru in Gevrey-Chambertin. It would only be 2 barrels, but very interesting terroir. Maybe a 5th tank will need to be ordered….

Cheers!

Life in Burgundy

How long have I been wanting to write this entry? Words cannot do justice to the way this feels. Saying ‘let’s go home’ and meaning Nuits-Saint-Georges in a real bell ringer and something that has actually kept me up at night thinking about. Before leaving to Burgundy from Northern California, I often thought about what this would feel like. I’m not quite sure that it matches up with how I thought it may be. Its all a bit more….real.

So, how is life in France? Things are going well. I’m sitting here and thinking about the calmness of it all. There is indeed a different pace to it all out here that really meshes with my personality. Not my California personality, my new French personality which is much more patient, into nature and a glass of wine at lunch.

Yesterday, I spoke with a friend who asked me to ask my wife if things felt comfortable in France, if things felt ‘right’. The response from my wife made me realize further that we made the right decision. Sure, the wine is tasting great  -why shouldn’t it – but the goal is to be happy, right? And, hearing that my wife is happy just means the world to me. To see my daughter smiling as she rides the carousel in Beaune really means a lot to me. I want both, you know. The dream and the practical life. Greedy? Sure. But, I am quite thankful to have it this way. I know it is a blessing, and I intend to make the most out of it.

Moving forward, life in Burgundy has been much much more than just drinking wine, cheeses, beautiful landscapes and great food. Well, maybe just a bit more. As it turns out, there isn’t too much difference in life in Burgundy (so far) versus life in California. For example, there are movie theaters, McDonald’s (can’t eat it in either place for too long), bad drivers, too many tourists (not me!), nothing on cable, poor cell phone coverage, expensive gas (gazoil) and there are so many places that are within a two hours drive or train ride.

Alright, honestly, things may be a bit different. The movie theater in Nuits has just one movie playing. If something is playing, you better go quickly. There is usually just one showing a day. Sex and the City just replaced Prince of Persia and I’m not too thrilled about that at all. Next, shopping carts here are crazy. They have no locked back wheels so each wheel spins completely. Sounds like its not a big deal until you try to steer one. Next, everything is closed on Sundays, or whenever the owner doesn’t wish to have a shop open. This is fun when you drive an hour to go somewhere and the place is closed. Don’t complain, this is France! Next, speed cameras on the freeway bite into some of the fun which I had when I was younger and more Californian.

Not all is lost, wifi is fast, food can be cheap, television can be free (aside from bonus subscriptions), people care about saying hello, the air is fresh, there are always sales at the supermarket, meats, cheeses and pastries are to be found everywhere and life here is much easier for families. There are countless things that have stood out as reasons why I know things will continue to go well here in Burgundy. All in all. I am just happy that my family is happy and that the wines are steadily advancing. Playing out the realities of one’s dreams can never be too hard on your spirits. This is something that occurred to me while I was struggling to pull up a massive tree in my garden last weekend. The work towards something you believe in can never be in vain. Knowing this puts a great deal of things into perspective for me.

Well, with my wifi now up and running I will be sure to post more updates.

Cheers!

Malos are going well

I will post an update tonight. However here are some pics for the moment. It is a great pleasure to go down into the cave and to hear the barrels fizzing with malolactic fermentations.

Cheers