2011: First Analysis
Hello everyone,
it has been a good month or so since my last post. Harvest work has finished before this time. But, this period has brought us the birth of our second daughter, Siena Jesline, born on October 23rd in Dijon. Everyone is healthy, happy and no one is sleeping…we couldn’t be happier. That is, unless we were able to get the luxury of 6 hours of sleep each night. One can only dream…
Since harvest, I’ve had a few chances to try my 2011s a few times. Checking on their progress, more for curiosity than for a glimpse into understanding them, I’ve noticed a similarity to the 10s in them already. Though, no matter how many snapshots are taken of them at this time, they will be whatever they wish to be in the end. I’ve kept my promise of not making changes between cuvées as I have started to do in 2010. There is a trust that is pleasurable to place into the wines. I’m not trying to have natural wines, or whatever they are being called this week. I am simply curious to view the inherent differences in these sites without changing my bias between wines. There is a risk in this, of course.
What if the grapes just aren’t up to standard? Foregoing practices which can aid in providing a makeup of sorts could be a possible advantage. Assuming that the quality of the fruit is a given takes the pressure off of my shoulders to try to make up for a perceived shortcoming in the fruit. This same assumption drives my interest in believing the pinnacle of expression from these grapes could possibly be attained by having a simple manner of working, and being consistent throughout the entire range of wines. To this point, I’ve felt a sense of calm in letting things be. This is of course understanding that if the health or safety of the wines were thought to be at complete risk, I’d certainly step in.
In 2009, I did analysis quite a bit. I was anxious to know what was going on. I didn’t aim to change anything based on the analysis, but I was fascinated by looking closer and closer, and I thought that perhaps numbers could provide answers. I also didn’t know what the hell I was doing. Today, I still don’t know what I’m doing. But, at least I am able to better understand my own personal goals, which are to be as simple and transparent as possible. Back in 2009, I would worry about one alcoholic fermentation not being finished or a malo starting before the rest. I tasted the wines and I would at times worry about where the wines were going. Thinking about this more, I worried because I assumed that I should have a greater sense of control. Before the 2010 vintage, I decided to increase my focus of doing the best I could where physical work was necessary. After this work was done, I would spare the wines (and myself) from peeking in too closely or too early. To this end, I decided to be more specific on the times at which to run analysis.
With all of this in mind, I have just completed the first set of analysis for the 2011s. I’ve enjoyed how the fruit looked during the growing season, how the fruit tasted, and the resulting fruit that made its way into the tanks. Fermentations went well, smelled pretty and tasted even better. In 2011, the smart thing is to chaptalize. It should come as no surprise then, that I have held to my word by not touching the wines apart from sulphur at harvest and three punchdowns in total. No pump overs, etc. Everything was treated the same besides a few wines needing to be fermented in stainless steel due to space issues (yes, this small detail still bothers me more than I care to admit!). I had No idea what the sugars were, but everything tasted right. Why would I care more about the numbers than what the wines tasted like?
In short, the numbers look as they should. A tick high on VA on one of the wines. But, I’m not worried. Also, two wines are showing below 11.5% alc. They really should be above this amount, it is necessary to be at a this legal minimum. Anyhow, two variables are present. I didn’t do a fair mix of all of the barrels and also the samples that I brought to the labs were brought over in containers which were not filled up completely, which can account for a drop in measurable alcohol. With this in mind, we shouldn’t have an issue with all of these being over 11.5% alc (one is showing at 11.4, the other at 11.2). Either way, if again given the chance to chaptalize, I still wouldn’t have chosen to do so. It is liberating knowing that my decisions aren’t being dictated by what number will be placed on a label or what others may be doing. There is a risk in this, but I do away with the risk of never knowing what the inherent potential would be if left with one less ounce of pressure placed on the wines. Keep in mind, I have nothing against this process, I just prefer to keep the variables low, the process simple.
Can’t be specific, but this is the analysis for a Côte de Nuits house wine my wife, Christian did:
Wines are back from the lab
Fresh from the lab and the numbers are looking excellent. The numbers are as follows:
Morey Saint Denis ‘Les Chaffots’ 1er Cru 13.29% alc
Charmes-Chambertin ‘Aux Charmes’ 13.59% alc
Le Chambertin 13.16% alc
The alcohol levels are right where I wanted them, on paper and through tasting. The ph levels are a bit higher than what we would like to see in Burgundy (mine are between 3.49-3.71). I could have made adjustments in the winery. By adding a bit of acid but my preference is to see what comes from the vineyard without adjustments. I also stayed away from chapitalization (adding sugar for boosting alc). These practices are used with success here but each person has their preferences. Mine is to do only what is necessary in the winery and the vintage was very easy on this philosophy.
Also of note, malic numbers are a bit low this year generally speaking. And with the chill now coming in, we are potentially looking at a long time to start and to finish malo.
Cheers
Done and done
Finally, I am back with some more updates! I have been using my iPhone while in France and my WordPress app has been keeping me from updating everyone. With a quick delete and reinstall I am back up and running.
The wines are now resting comfortably in barrel. I enlisted the help from the guys from South Africa from Domaine Clivet in Beaune. I couldn’t contain my enthusiasm for starting the pressing process. This was an excellent year apprently for juice. Most that I spoke with reported a great amount of free run with exceptional color.
I ended up with a shortage on both my Morey Saint Denis and my Charmes-Chambertin. However I was able to fill 2 full sized 228 liter barrels and a 114 liter barrel (feullette) with Le Chambertin which is quite a bit more than the 2 I was expecting.
I am very happy with the results. Is this the vintage of the decade that many are making it out to be? I think 2012 is shaping up to be a bit better. Meaning, it’s best not to get too caught up in the best, greatest and so forth. Being in France has taught me that I should be more focused on the benefit of one without depreciating the other. There is no best, just different. This vintage is showing to be one with many strenghts, however the enjoyment will only be known to the person with the glass in hand.
Here are a few pics from the weeks that the blog was down. My apologies for the down time.
Thanks again for the emails and replies. It means a lot knowing that others are along with me for the ride.
Cheers
Just back from Gevrey-Chambertin
Fresh from visiting Gevrey-Chambertin and the gravity of it all has a grip on me. I think it was the courtier naming off the producers I will be shoulder to shoulder with come harvest time that drove the point home. I am officially in contract on all of my fruit.
Now onto the vineyards. The Charmes-Chambertin I am sourcing is all from within ‘Aux Charmes’ which is roughly 10 feet (the width of the road which separates the two) away from Le Chambertin. Grapes from close to the RN74 are in Mazoyeres, but can be labeled as Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru. My source is located higher above, on a gentle slope. The grapes were really were sorted curently. When tasted from the vine today, the Charmes had a nice thickness of skin, a soft flesh, lightly browned seeds, and bright toned fruit. The clusters hanging were very few in number, with truly a modest set of berries on each.
Chicken and Egg
The fruit from Aux Charmes is showing a generous amount of chicken and egg, which is excellent. When you have uniform berry sizes, the skin thicknesses (which are quite important for a Pinot noir), water/grape skin ratio are similar throughout the cluster. When you have both tiny and regular sized berries, older wine makers have always called it Chicken and Egg. The common thought is that with these circumstances, there are more nuances to the wine, which makes for something more interesting. When tasting the grapes, there is a noticable difference in the tannin feel, brightness of fruit, and the perceptible feeling of the flesh around the seeds. Will it be better? I have no idea, but whatever the results both the chicken and egg are apparent.
Le Chambertin
This vineyard is roughly 10 feet higher up te slope than Charmes, possibly 20 feet. The elevation has more variability than the gentle sloping soil below the feet of Aux Charmes. Chambertin has quite an angle as it reaches up the slope. My vines go from the street up to the top of Chambertin. The vines seem to point East/West as opposed to the North/South situation of Aux Charmes. The berries are just a bit bigger at times here, and at others impossibly small. There is quite a bit chicken and egg here as well. The soil has just as many stones as the other vineyard, however the stone looks finer at times, broken into rubble. The soil is also at times are a deeper hue of red than others.
The grapes have a deeper tone, the skin is thicker, more packed with everything. Deeper tone to the seed, more intense fruit impression, tigher flesh around the seed and more of the sense of acid. Before tasting these grapes side by side I would never have guessed at this point that they would have so many perceptible differences. Now, you couldn’t blind guess these at this point. However, side by side, most people, non people would clearly notice they weren’t the same.
Tonight I am happy to report all of this to my wife. My head is aching from thinking about all the variables in play. It’s a good sore. But I am anxious, waiting again for what seems like the shot before a marathon begins.
Well, to bed for now…to think, and to listen for that shot before I take off.
